You’ve just opened an envelope to find a thick, high-quality card inviting you to a wedding, gala, or awards ceremony. Your heart is racing until you see, in the bottom corner, the dreaded phrase: Black Tie Required.
Thoughts racing and spiralling, you may ask yourself the following questions: Is a tuxedo required, or would a cocktail dress be okay?
Don’t panic. Although the phrase ‘black tie’ conjures images of archaic and rigid traditions, contemporary black tie functions conjure feelings of elegance and celebration, and above all, a show of respect for the host. Focus less on a 1920 rulebook, and focus more on looking your best.
In this guide, we will break down exactly what a black tie event is, decode the dress code for men and women, and provide the practical etiquette tips you need to navigate the evening like a pro.
Table of Contents
To understand the dress code, you first have to understand the event itself. What is a black tie event? Historically, it is a formal evening occasion that takes place after 6:00 PM. It ranks as the second most formal dress code in Western society, sitting just below “White Tie” (which is reserved for state dinners and royal affairs) and above “Formal” or “Cocktail.”
The occasion of a black tie event is to bring uniformity to the men in the event. The design of a black tuxedo is supposed to portray the fact that no one in the event is the most distinguished in dress, and to bring attention to the men. Instead, the attention is put on the celebration, and the dresses the ladies are wearing.
Let’s just cut to the chase, a casual dinner on a Friday night almost definitely will not have a black tie event. So, what black-tie events are there?
The golden rule of black tie is respect. You honor the host and the event by dressing well. However, this is a matter of gender.
For men, a black tie is prescriptive. It is the uniform of the evening. A standard business suit will generally not cut it.
The Essentials:
What do females wear for a black tie?
Unlike men, women have more flexibility, but the keyword is elegance.
The Gown: The standard expectation is a floor-length evening gown. This is the safest and most traditional choice. The silhouette can vary from a ballgown to a sheath dress, provided it looks formal.
In contemporary styles, a sophisticated cocktail dress can be acceptable if it is extremely formal. This means rich fabrics, dark colors, or embellishments. However, if you choose a shorter length, it should not be “mini.” It should hit at the knee or below. If you are unsure, always default to a floor-length gown.
The Pantsuit Option: Women may attend a black-tie event in pants! A tuxedo-style jumpsuit or pantsuit made of tailored silk or velvet is very classy and completely acceptable when paired with formal shoes and accessories.
One of the most common questions regarding this dress code revolves not around the cut of the cloth, but the color.
In theory, yes. Although you may not be confined to lighter shades, black, navy, and deep red, along with gold, silver, or bronze metals, are the foundations of black tie. Jewel shades are also stunning and appropriate.
Although pastels and brighter colors like pink or yellow are more difficult to achieve, they can be used effectively. If you go for bright, make sure the garment is of a superior quality fabric like silk, chiffon, or velvet to avoid the daywear aesthetic.
Over and above the black-tie rules, each wedding has its own set of etiquette. What colors should you avoid at a black-tie wedding?
Your look is only as strong as the pieces that finish it.
The right shoes can make or break your look and your comfort.
For Men:
You can’t wear the office brogues. What shoes are best for black-tie?
For the ladies:
Sometimes, knowing what to avoid is more helpful than knowing what to wear. When trying to determine what is acceptable to wear to a black tie, avoid these common mistakes:
Here is a quick reference table to ensure you aren’t overdressing or underdressing.
| Feature | Black Tie | White Tie | Formal / Black Tie Optional | Cocktail |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Men’s Jacket | Tuxedo (Black/Midnight) | Tailcoat with tails | Tuxedo or Dark Suit | Suit / Blazer |
| Men’s Shirt | White Pleated/Textured | White Piqué (Stiff) | White Dress Shirt | White or Light Blue |
| Tie | Black Bow Tie | White Bow Tie | Bow Tie or Conservative Long Tie | Long Tie |
| Women’s Dress | Floor-length Gown | Floor-length Ballgown | Gown or Fancy Cocktail Dress | Short/Midi Dress |
| Vibe | Sophisticated & Uniform | Regal & Strict | Elegant but Flexible | Party & Fun |
You look the part; now you have to act the part. A black-tie event is a performance of manners. Here is how to navigate the specific “acts” of the evening.
Much like a concert has opening acts to warm up the crowd, black-tie events have the Cocktail Hour.
The etiquette test really begins when you sit down.
The dinner plates will have been cleared, the coffee will have been served, and the band will have started playing. This is the encore of the evening, the after-dinner entertainment.
Last but not least, we have your biggest concerns out of the way.
Yes. We advise renting a tuxedo if you do not attend black-tie events, while, of course, if you are doing so on a frequent basis, renting will be unnecessary. It will be a good idea to go for a fitting with plenty of time to spare so the sleeves and the trouser length sit correctly. People will be able to tell if it’s a rental if you have poor fitting, so we will be able to tell you this, so we will be able to tell you this.
No, cummerbunds are traditional, but many modern tuxedos are worn without one. Just make sure your shirt is tucked in, your trousers are at your natural waist, and there is no white shirt in view between your jacket and waistband. If you don’t like cummerbunds, a low-cut waistcoat is a great substitute.
Consider this your permission to be a little more fun! Men might sport a velvet jacket in burgundy or green, or for women, it suggests more avant-garde cuts, bolder prints, in addition to sculptural accessories.
No, usually for a formal dinner, the jacket is to remain on until the host starts to remove theirs, or until the dancing is in full swing.
While preparing for a black-tie event may cause some worries, it is a unique occasion in our everyday lives. It allows us to experience, for a change, a little bit of glamour and sophistication.
Here is the summary:
Confidence is the best accessory, and if it’s your first time, remember this. If unsure about your fit, be on the side of classic. A simple black gown or black tux is the best. The aim of the night is simply to enjoy champagne and be with company. The night is not about breaking the rules. The night is elegant, and the outfit should be the same. Focus on the company and not the outfit.
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